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Chew Valley Graded List E5 & above (below)

Chew's E4 list, Extremes 6a & Harder (click)

The Rest of Grit's finest in Graded order.

Chart based on Jon Read's original creation: The Grit List

 

Gritstone Index

Wimberry page
The Chew Valley List. (E5 & above)
SAFE
but
technical
Sad, Tired & Old E5 6b Charnel Stones Contrived route direct up Temptation Slab, wires in breaks. (done in 91' unreported at E4)

 
Space Oddity E5 6c Wimberry From right of the overhang move up & hand traverse to the short thin slanting crack, follow it to the rib above.

 
Main Overhang E5 6c Wimberry Steep start gains holds for big dynos (peg), with an easy slab finish.

 
Loose Women E5 6c Running Hill Steep crimping to a desperate but peg protected crux.

 

 
Hymen the Tactless E5 6c? Dovestones Edge Up the left side of the tapering overhang, traverse right to the widest point and crank on pebbles (hopefully enough remain, some are absent?) to the next break.

 
Double Take E6 6b Wimberry Traverse right from above Freddie's first bulge, scratch around for pro then finish via marginally easier ramp-line.

 
Berlin wall

 

 E6 6b Wimberry From the small shelf 15ft up coffin crack reach a small pocket (hand placed peg), diagonal right to "thank god" pocket, up pebbled wall to the roof & traverse right joining Trident.

 
Scoop de Grace E5 7a Running Hill Very, very technical start to (hard, high) 6b finish. All with a flat landing.

 
Wristcutter's Lullaby E6 6c Wimberry RP for the first crux, sustained protectable climbing leads to steep finishing moves.

 
Breakin' for a Bogey

 

 E6 6c Running Hill Thin & technical to a peg protected crux.
It Hurts E7 7a Wilderness Rocks Takes the wall right of Sans Pic Arête via a hard move for a sloped crimp and a big dyno for another sloper (crux). F2 in break on left, RP0 and R3+4 in opposition on the right - all pretty poor apparently.

 
SAFE
but
sustained
Mickey Mouse E5 6a Charnel Stones Hanging left arête of Temptation crack on its R side. Move L to the arête at the obvious finger/nut slot at half height.
Sagittarius Flake E5 6b Running Hill Thin finger crack then a proud move is forced to reach the top.
Get Rhythm E5 6b Running Hill Well protected with old pins, almost a sport route. Crux low but the top pin has been tested several times.
Jet Lag E5 6b/c Dovestones Quarries (lower R) The slab and wall left of Tiny Tim, reach into this route and place a piece at half height.
Yorick's Crack E5 6c Running Hill Sustained & technical, yet highly protectable.
Neptune's Tool E6 6c Wimberry Thin left slanting crack (first stopper (RP3) placed with a stick) to good stance, continue up & leftwards via pockets, finish through a bulge just right of Coffin Crack.

 
BOLD
and
technical
Phaestus E5 5c Running Hill Exposed ramp to high balancey finish.

 

 
Climb with No Name E5 6a Wimberry The fine arête right of Charm's face. Start with a short groove finish while avoiding barn-dooring from the right side.

 
Stretch Named Desire E5 6b Den Lane Short tricky quarried face, just E5, a grade less with crash pads.

 

 
Charnel Knowledge E5 6b Charnel Stones Trend L from Paul's Perambulation finishing up the R-hand side of the arête.

 
Over the Moors E5 6b Ravenstones Wall to the right of Pulpit Ridge, trending slightly rightwards.

 

 
Passport to the Pits E5 6b Running Hill Wall to the right of Plum Line. One hard move.

 

 
Chockblock E5 6b Wimberry Slab (not arête) right of Squirmers Chimney. Runners in the flake left of the chimney.

 
Give the Dog a Bone E5 6b Upperwood The right side of the prow/block. Traverse from right side moving up the right side of the arête. From the pockets & stacked (glued) pegs finish directly.

 
Consolation Prize E5 6b Wimberry Hard start to spooky laybacking up the arête's left side.

 

 
Iguanadon E5 6b Running Hill Reachy moves right-wards into the depression which is followed with great difficulty.

 
Yarn Spinner E5 6c Running Hill Thin highly technical face.

 
Edge your Bets E5 6c Upperwood Up the left wall of the prow/block. Directly up to old bolt above the roof's left-hand side, climb the upper desperate wall moving right to a pocket & passing two pegs. Pegs may be absent,... add some E points ??

 
The Possessed E7 6b Wimberry Thin crack & wall to a hard exit mantel. Located on the green wall left of Starvation Chimney.

 
Minne Monster E6/7 6c/7a Pots & Pans Quarry Desperate barndoor snach move somewhat above good gear.

 

 
Michael Knight Wears a Chest Wig E7 6b/c Wimberry Face to the left of Twin Cracks.  Stating at an obvious porthole it heads up the wall by a series of moves on pebble and finishes by laybacking up the left arête, which is described as massively exposed and scary. 

 
Scuttle Buttin' E7 6c Dovestones Quarry The prominent arête of the lower R quarry. Technical start with immediate exposure, good gear after the crux.

 

 
MaDMAn E8 6b Wimberry Solo. This subtly titled Dave Pegg route takes the huge blunt arête right of Trident, to very sloping notch, where it goes left and joins Trident. Thin, exposed and relying on a lot of pebble moves; throw in a rest stance to get completely psyched out on: Utter terror! (unrepeated?)
Appointment with Death E9 6c Wimberry Direct up the imposing wall above the establishing move of Appointment With Fear. Gear in Route one step onto the wall and finish direct. (2003)
BOLD
and
sustained
Little Bighorn E5 6a Upperwood Impressive very difficult to gain right slanting crackline. Start from the jutting nose, exit leftwards from high up the ramp.

 
Waiting for an Alibi E5 6a Upperwood Climb the thin crack passing an old peg. Hard moves from the pockets lead with increasing ease to the top.

 
No Time to Pose E5 6b Ravenstones The impending arête and roof right of Muddy Crack. Fine climbing, sparse pro.

 
Piedra Verde E5/6 6a Wimberry Wall & arête right of Sloping Crack. Step from the boulder onto the steep wall, direct & tenuously past the arête and pebbled slab. (2003)

 
Appointment With Fear E7 6b Wimberry Climbs an amazing fin-cum-prow-like arête, clipping very old bolts en route. Exposed to say the least.

 
Mutants can be Nice E7 6c Wilderness Rocks Rightward trending small stuff climbed on the wall left of Palm Crack.

 
Let's get Killed E7 6b Wilderness Rocks Rightward trending snappy pebbles climbed by a series of well timed slaps getting progressively harder and harder until a final lunge for a good hold sees you at the top. Centre of the Camel's Head.

 
Black Mountain Collage E7 6b Ravenstones Andy Popp route in the remote Chew valley. From the top of the initial crack of Pulpit Ridge (and the last gear), sustained 6b padding leads up the wall and to welcome salvation. The remote setting of this route surely increases its seriousness, and stands as a counterpoint to the 'convenience danger' of the eastern edges. (unrepeated?)
Sectioned E8 6c Wimberry Direct through the bulge and pebbled centre of the wall to the twin pockets common with all the wall's routes. Of the three E6 finishes I chose the Tool's feeling it to be a better line than the bolted Wristcutter's Lullaby (E5) or right exiting Berlin Wall (E6). From a stunt rigging perspective: Gear way right for the start should pull one away from the blocks onto the grassy terrace. (2004)
Order of the Phoenix E9 6c Wimberry The buttress between Hanging Groove and Coffin Crack. Through the roof then the front face using the right arête and a couple o' pebbles, all without a stitch of gear! (2003)

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Chew's E4 list
SAFE
but
technical
Space Shuffle E4 6a Wimberry Traverse good horizontal left to the front of the main overhang, up and left again to gain a hidden ramp/corner.

 
Black Adder E4 6a Running Hill First quarry; wall to the right of String trending right at the top.

 
Exfoliation E4 6a Pots & Pans Reach dependent. the thin flake/ groove right of the arête Taa McCallum. Clip the peg (old) and stretch.

 
Annoying Little Man E4 6b Standing Stones The buttress right of 17 Shades starting at a large flake.

 
Strappado E4 6b Dovestones Edge Hard to attain crack on the jutting prow.

 
SAFE
but
sustained
Thorn in the Side-wall E4 6a Wimberry Reach the pocket in right wall of Bertie's Bugbear, after climbing it for a while. Climb the wall above direct with one brief step left for pro.

 
Tighten Your Nuts E4 6a Running Hill Finger traverse right across the break to the final moves of Iguanodon.

 
Bob Hope E4 6a Dovestones Quarry Nice sustained, classic finger crack.

 
Play it Safe E4 6a Upperwood Direct through the bulge to a steep pocketed slab, one peg runner and other arrangements possible.

 
Hi Ho Silver E4 6b Upperwood In this category with the peg in-situ. The shallow corner then overhang (go right) left of the large corner, How.

 
Tomahawk E4 6a Upperwood Sustained pin scarred crack climbing, pro is available yet hard to hang out and place.

 
Paul's Arête E4 6b Charnel Stones Arête/facet right of Paul's Perambulation joining it at the top of the groove. Side-runner on right.

 
Wall of China E4 6b Ravenstones Wedgewood Crack Direct start to the ledge, climb right-wards through a scoop to the arête, follow its left side till a step L gains a crack.

 
Chew Bits E4 6b Upperwood Gain the crack right of Waiting for an Alibi direct, finish to good holds.

 
Calamity Crack E4 6a Running Hill Overhanging thin hand crack, brutish then the crux..

 
BOLD
and
technical
Undercut Arête E4 5c Upperwood Hanging arête right of Renegade. Arrange gear in the break then out to & up the arête.

 
Arête du Coeur E4 5c Wimberry Right-hand side of the arête to and through the overhang. Eight feet left of Ornithologist's Corner.

 
Twilight Zone E4 5c Wimberry Undercut rib with an un-welcomed sloping finish.

 
Birch Wall E4 6a Dovestones Quarry Starts right of Swinging chimney. Loose climbing for the first 20', continue then step left onto tip of the fallen pillar, move out for the slim groove out right.

 
Good as Gnu E4 6a Wilderness Rocks A fine arête route on the crag's right end, hang onto the right side.

 
Stuck E4 6a Standing Stones Bottoming crack to a horizontal, move right then via two small flakes finish staying right of Womanless Wall.

 
Unstuck E4 6a/b Standing Stones The wall right of Stuck.

 
Fish Meal & Revenge E4 6a Standing Stones A committing little number, rounded holds blind pro then the top out.

 
Cheltenham Gold Cup E4 6c Wimberry Follow a vague groove after traversing left from Bertie's Bugbear.

 
Nuke the Whale E4 6b Ravenstones Start on the left of the arête, finish on the right. Quite bold & problematic.

 
BOLD

and

sustained
The Wasteland E4 5c Charnel Stones The right edge of the hanging temptation slab, runners level with the base of the crack.

 
Taa McCallum E4 6a Pots & Pans The main arete in the front quarry, peg runner at 1/3 height.

 
Yellow Bellied Gonk E4 6a Wimberry Short undercut arête with an engrossing exit onto the slab. Just left of Overhanging Chimney.

 
Renaissance E4 6a Upperwood Traverse to the hanging arête from the right, arrange bits & pieces then boldly to the top.

 

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The rest of Chew's extreme routes 6a & harder
XS

routes

6a &

above
Cosmo Smallpiece E1 6a Running Hill Direct up the wall to the right of Sunstroke. Sixth Quarry.
Fire Power E1 6b Den Lane Boulder problem finger crack, behind the tree at the Long Wall area.
Psycho 2 E1 6b Upperwood Bullet scared short wall thirty metres left of the other quarries.

 
Vortex E1 6c Den lane The wall between Quick Step & Calypso Crack without touching them, start under the roof.
Ditch Diggin' E1 6c Alderman's Rocks Steep pebbled scoop with a thankfully flat landing, left of Edgehog Flavor's arête.

 
Dredger E2 6b Standing Stones Start on the right hand arête formed by the groove of Ocean's Border. Blast the right side for 20ft to pro then climb up to a junction with Ocean wall & a choice of finishes.

 
Tweedledum E2 6a Dovestones Quarry A hard to enter groove above easy ground, splitter jamming to a bulging finish. Left of the bottom left quarry.

 
A Fist Full of Daggers E2 6b Running Hill Short, steep technical crack on the lower tier of quarries.

 
Midgebite Express E2 6a Running Hill Steep barndoor arête around to the right from dusty arête. Gear in horizontal breaks.

 
Tightwalk E2 6a Dovestones Quarry Very protectable and technical thin crack near the base of the Waterfall Route.
Winsome E2 6c Wimberry Boulders Steep pebbled slab on the right side of the Matterhorn boulder's down hill face.
Arête Me Not E2 6c Den Lane Short arête just right of the finger crack at the left end of Whimsical Wall. No touching the crack (a little contrived).
Desecration E3 6a Wimberry Traverse the headwall left from the block of Trident into Coffin Crack.
Pristine Muffin E3 6a Pots & Pans The one pegged thin crack in the wall right of Pans.
Mangled Digit E3 6a Running Hill Discontinuous thin crack, some long reaches, lots of gear & a peg.

 
Long Wall Eliminate E3 6a Den Lane Traversing flake/undercut, from the ledge on Orchestral Crack follow the feature, difficult reach into a finger crack, then finish Mississippi Dip.

 
From the Cradle to the Grave E3 6a Charnel Stones Direct up the wall to the right of The Sprog.
Wildebeest E3 6a Wilderness Rocks Steep slab capped by a good size overhang, pull over this then boldly utilize the right arête to set up for an easing finish.
A Walk with Whittaker E3 6a Wimberry Undercut scoop around left from Northern Ballet.
Godzilla E3 6a Running Hill Right side or the arête with a long move to reach the ramp. Next feature right of Gargantuan.
Rampant Bull Cream E3 6a Den Lane Arête then over the roof to ledge and hanging slab right of Wasp Nest Crack.
The Screaming Abdabs E3 6a Upperwood A technical arête beginning on the grassy terrace, try to achieve balance while climbing the left side, passing one peg runner.

 
Hole in The Wall E3 6b Den Lane Traverse the rail right then use said hole. Left Of Wasp Nest Crack.
General Custard E3 6a Upperwood The pillar's centre between the two clefts is taken direct, difficult opening move onto the wall.
Parallax E3 6a Running Hill Delicately up left hand side of rib with possibility of reaching right into Sticky Fingers for pro.
The Charlatan E3 6a Pots & Pans Overhanging finger crack tucked just left of Taa McCallum's arête. Move right to the arête on reaching the good jugs.
Blind Faith

 

 E3 6a Wimberry Bold blunt arête on the right side of the wall containing Pinball Wizard.
The Ocean's Border E3 6a Standing Stones Bridge up the groove to an interesting, blind encounter at the roof.
Harvest Moon

 

 E3 6a Running Hill Direct up the feint groove to the rusting spanner finish straight or move right with the easier Spanner wall for "The Connection".
Tin Man E3 6b Running Hill The cracks right of It Only takes Two to Tango, passing a peg runner.
Gut Feeling E3 6b Standing Stones The thin (chipped) wall right of Kon-Tiki is climbed via a right leaning crack. Side-runner on left.
Big Little Problem E3 6c Alderman's Rocks A short blunt prow on the smaller crag's (left of main crag) left side. Steep poor landing.
Village Green E3 6c Wimberry A bald undercut arête to the right of Kvick Chimney, technical arête with a direct finish over the small roof.
Northern Passing E3 6c Chew Roof Rob's Rocks Start 5ft left of the crack. Friable dangling to the sloping exit. Roof is around 600 ft West of Rob's Rocks and easily spotted while approaching.

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